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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s best eateries, one might anticipate familiar Michelin-starred names. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary giants is a modest salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Unexpected Recognition

This small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a influential culinary publication. The honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am completely astonished,” states the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest shop securing such a prominent spot on a respected 99-strong list.

The Charm of Simplicity

This small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the fare, and this restaurant more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in slowly. When the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped neatly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet profile.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has ranked above several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can cost many times that amount.

The Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is warmth, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “I believe numerous people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the greater importance of this culinary honour.